How to Sew Leather with a Heavy Duty Industrial Sewing Machine

how to sew leather

TuffSew here, your heavy duty sewing machine supplier. So, you have decided to start sewing leather. Here at TuffSew, we get one or two questions a day regarding sewing leather. 

The most important question to ask yourself is “what sewing machine am I going to use?” Let’s say you have a regular household sewing machine that you plan on using for this leather project. Will it sew your new leather project? The answer is maybe. There are many variables you need to be aware of.

First, your household sewing machine takes a maximum needle size of 19. Will this handle some leather? Yes, it will. But that size needle is pretty thin….and will only work on SOFT leather products with thicknesses from 1/16″ to 1/8″.

One of the biggest problems people have when using a household sewing machine for leather is they think they can sew 1/4″ thick or greater. If you do this, chances are you will break needles, skip stitches, and stall out. If you truly want to learn how to sew thick leather up to 1/4″ thick, make sure to research machines such as our Straight Stitch Industrial Portable Sewing Machine for leather.
 
TuffSew Straight Stitch Walking Foot Sewing Machine
 
The Straight Stitch can take up a size 23 needle! This size needle looks and feels like a nail…and will penetrate your leather projects very efficiently. This machine is manufactured with a built in walking foot. 

This walking foot will grab your leather material from the top and the bottom…evenly feeding your thick material through the sewing process. Here is an image of the walking foot:
Built In Walking Foot
 

And here are the 7 additional tips when sewing leather:

1) Don’t buy the most expensive leather the first or second time you sew leather. 

A lot of times you can find scrap leather from a local dealer at very high discounts. Remember, practice makes perfect. Learn how different thicknesses of leather need different needle types, sewing speeds, and varied lengths of stitches.

 

2) Find a knowledgable leather supplier, someone you can trust. 

Give them detailed instructions on what your application or project is, and ask them what they recommend you use.

3) Use a rotary cutter to cut your leather skins. 

You should also be using some weights to keep your material in place while you cut.

 

4) Sewing Leather takes time, slow down. 

If you don’t have enough time for your project, then don’t start it. Manage your time and start back up when you can give 100% of your attention and effort to your leather sewing project.

5) You can press leather with an iron (other side of hide).

6) Don’t use pins on leather as they leave holes. 

Ask your leather provider about clips.

7) If you are sewing 1/8″ thick or greater, make sure and use a presser foot that is grooved. 

The TuffSew Straight Stitch Machine has this grooved presser foot. The feed dogs are also grooved. This will give you the benefit of true grip when you are sewing. You want to be in complete control when sewing thick leather- so make sure and get the right machine for the job. For more information regarding this machine, please visit: Walking Foot Sewing Machine for Leather.


Lastly, here is a YouTube video on some advantages of using a walking foot machine for sewing leather or other thick materials:
 


Click for more information about our: TuffSew Portable Walking Foot Sewing Machine.
 
The TuffSew Team

What Tools Do I Need to Sew Canvas for Boating Projects

how to sew canvas

Before you start diving into do-it-yourself canvas sewing work on your boat- you need to make sure you have all the right tools for the job. You are going to need a heavy duty sewing machine, some thick needles, some thread, a good pair of scissors, and material. 

You don’t need to be alarmed and go buy a $1,200 dollar sewing machine. A simple walking foot sewing machine with a built in motor will do.

We recommend our TuffSew Straight Stitch 9” heavy duty walking foot sewing machine for all of your sewing projects. There are two different size TuffSew Straight Stitch machines. One has a 7” gate the other has a 9” gate. The gate is essentially the amount of horizontal working space from the left edge of the sewing machine to middle base of the machine. 

We strongly encourage you to use a machine with a longer 9” base-it will certainly make things easier on your when sewing canvas. To learn more about this sewing machine, please click on the video below:
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HN-ewDgw8V4
 
Let’s get to material. You have primarily 2 choices at this point. You can go with the standard in the industry “Sunbrella” which is acrylic – or natural canvas. We do recommend using Sunbrella however the price is 2-3 times higher than natural canvas.

Next on to the recommended thread! If you are new to sewing it’s important to use the same color thread as your material. You certainly don’t want to show off your errors. Light colored thread on top of dark material does look fancy- if you are up for the challenge. 

The type of thread you want to use is polyester based 69 or 92 weight. A simple google search will place in on websites where you can order all different colored threads for your particular project.

Needles and the correct sewing machine are next and the most important topic on this article. The following hypothetical situation happens daily… So you are excited….let’s say you bought your Sunbrella material, bought a great pair of new scissors, and bought your brand new 69 colored thread. 

You wake up early one Saturday and take out your regular household sewing machine and needles. You start to sew…but the needle not only won’t penetrate ¼” thickness of material, and the needle starts bending and then they keeps breaking. DON’T PANIC! It’s not you.

You just need to realize you are not using the correct sewing machine and needle. You need to use a 135×17 needle size 22. These needles are like nails and will penetrate up to 3/8” thickness of canvas. 

You also need a walking foot industrial style sewing machine to hook these needles into. Once you have the right sewing machine and needles….your sewing project will come alive.

It’s important to find a heavy duty walking foot sewing machine for sewing canvas. Click to learn the other benefits to using the TuffSew Walking Foot Portable Industrial Sewing Machine.

As always, if you have any further questions- please don’t hesitate to email me at [email protected]. I get back to all emails within 24 hours.
-The TuffSew Team-

How to Sew Thick Material and Multiple Layers by TuffSew

how to sew thick material

TuffSew here, your heavy duty sewing machine supplier. Whether you sew because it’s your hobby or your livelihood, it’s important to continue to learn different concepts and techniques along the way. 

Sewing begins to be a challenge when you decide to start tackling multiple layers of material underneath your presser foot. After reading this article, you should be better suited to handle situations when you must sew thick materials.

First you need to ask yourself “What type of sewing machine am I working with?” This is extremely important because every sewing machine has its limitations. If you are using a regular household sewing machine, the following 3 tips will help you:

1)      Do you need all that additional layer lining? Probably not. Cut off the excess (especially for side seams) but make sure not to break the actual stitching.

2)      Use the largest size needle acceptable for your sewing machine. Usually a size 18 or 19 needle will allow you to penetrate the multiple layers more effectively.

3)      In situations when you are breaking needles –maybe you are sewing a strap for a purse- use the hand wheel alone.

Those tips didn’t help? Still breaking needles? The problem is not you or your domestic sewing machine-it’s the capabilities of the machine. It’s time for you to start looking into more of an industrial grade sewing machine. 

Portable walking foot industrial strength sewing machines will stand a much better chance of completing your thick sewing projects. 

We recommend our TuffSew Straight Stitch machine, you can view it here http://www.tuffsew.com/straight-stitch-industrial-walking-foot-sewing-machine. Here is a video with more information on this type of sewing machine:

To go over the details of the above video. Walking foot industrial strength sewing machines will help you sew thicker fabrics because:

1)      You can use larger needles- up to 22 or 23
2)      There are “grips” on the walking foot and feed dogs, which help pull the heavy fabric through the sewing process
3)      You can use nylon thread and thicker weighted thread in general- giving the stitching in your final project much better strength and life duration
4)      More power- more RPM’s and torque equals better results when sewing heavy fabric
5)      More durability- all metal parts and cast iron construction will give you a machine that lasts much longer than plastic parts and construction
If you are interested in understanding more about sewing thicker materials, feel free to stop by our website at www.tuffsew.com.

Seven Important Tips when Sewing Leather by TuffSew

sewing thick leather

TuffSew here, your heavy duty sewing machine supplier. Sewing with leather can be very difficult and unforgiving if you make any mistakes. 

Many people ask us for sewing tips when working with leather products. Here are seven basic suggestions which will help you when sewing a type of material unlike any other. 

7 Tips When Sewing Leather

Make sure and examine your leather before you actually mark out your pattern. 

Sometimes there may be a small hole or slight imperfection in the hide. You certainly do not want to get to the end of your project and then see a small tear in your new leather purse. Imperfections are normal because the hide was once on animals who lived in the wild where scarring is a normal occurrence.

You can’t really pin leather-use pattern-weights. 

These weights will keep your material locked in place like a pin would. We recommend cutting leather with a sharp pair of heavy duty scissors or a sharp rotary cutter. That’s the safest way.

Use the correct sewing machine for your needs. 

A normal domestic sewing machine will sew lightweight garment leather. Usually you can sew up to 1/8” thickness on this domestic machine. Using a walking foot attachment or Teflon presser foot will help.

If you’re sewing leather products over 1/8” thickness, you are going to need a portable walking foot sewing machine that can actually handle what you are trying to accomplish. 

Your best bet is a walking foot industrial sewing machine. We recommend our TuffSew Straight Stitch machine.

5)      You need to use a size 20 or 22 needle to penetrate thick and coarse leather. 

A domestic sewing machine can only take up to a 19 needle. These special leather needles will be the difference in an “A+” result versus a “C” result.

6)      Make sure and use nylon weighted thread, not cotton. 

It’s stronger and will last much longer.

7)      Skipping stitches is always an issue when sewing leather. 

Why? Well, first off, are you using the correct sewing machine? Look at tip number 4 above. You might be encountering uneven bulk under the presser foot or seems coming together. Make sure you are using a brand new sharp size 22 needle with your built in walking foot sewing machine. 

The sharpness of the needle will penetrate properly, and the built-in motorized walking foot will help feed the fabric properly.

Remember, if you are sewing thick leather, look into a walking foot sewing machine. Here is another article you can reference if you need information on a sewing machine for leather.
If you are interested in understanding more about sewing with leather, feel free to stop by our website at www.tuffsew.com